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Peter Munro

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Posts posted by Peter Munro

  1. Having to vacate my store within next two weeks and have pipework & trays to dispose of to good home. 7 or 8 Renatus made trays, small & medium, plus an oboe rank (Bishop), a 4' spotted flue rank, and several fruit boxes containing mixture pipes (Hele & Hill), plus other organ odds & ends. Am in Devizes.

  2. Have a 1/4HP Discus blower in cabinet, with attached slide valve. Nice quiet unit, not now needed. Needs sleeve renewing between fan outlet and inside of cabinet. Thinking £250 if anyone interested.

  3. Free to good home: set of Open Diapason pipes from a Bishop swell organ.

    With wooden bass octave (narrow scale open pipes with roller beards).

    Presently in good condition, metal pipes stored in trays, but please bring own boxes.

    Located in Devizes, Wiltshire. Peter Munro (07502 209060)

  4. There is an article in the IBO's Organ Building Journal, Vol.7 "A method for calculating wind reservoir size" by Andrew Moyes, which you may find to be of interest. In this article Andrew explains the process and calculations he uses to size regulators.

     

    Thanks for this. I'll try to get a copy.

    PM

  5. Thanks for the additional explanation. You sound as if you're discussing a particular case, or a project maybe?

     

    I think there's nothing much wrong with these (I think they're called 'membrane reservoirs') provided

    1. they have sufficient rise and fall (see below)

    2. in terms of efficacy, you should remember that they are the equivalent of a single-rise bellows

    The double-rise bellows so beloved of all our great firms was adopted so generally because it gives such a uniformly steady (as opposed to solid, unyielding) supply of wind. The additional, inverted fold layer helps greatly with this (?was it referred to as Cummings's improvement?) Builders were concerned to achieve this equalisation of pressure because of their reliance upon hand-blowing. A single rise (if fed by a decent-sized trunk and controlled by a well-adjusted valve or pallet) gives steady enough wind IMHO.

     

    You ask about size, well it's just a question of capacity (i.e. difference between rise and fall of the top board). I hope others will rush in to correct or confirm what I say, but I would reckon so long as the volume of the pallet-box is not larger than the volume given by the rise and fall, you would be fine in all eventualities. This presumes that there is not too great a distance between the reservoir and the chest, and that the trunk to the chest is adequate. Having said that, some historically-informed builders have gone back to using relatively narrow trunks at this point in order to achieve the old effect! [We're back to 'living, breathing' wind again!]

     

    P.S. I forgot!

    If these are small (i.e. 3' long or less, and for some reason oblong ones work better than square ones), you may have a problem with their speed of reaction. I've known them to be sluggish to respond and refill after sudden demands unless the pressure is obtained by a combination of weights and springs. Don't ask me why! Someone here will know!

     

    Thanks for that considered reply. Yes, it could well be for a particular project, where space is tight. I have made them in the past and used them successfully, utilising weights, and the results have been good. Your 'rule of thumb', relating the volume of the rise to the volume of the pallet box presents a sort of logical relationship, so thanks for that also.

  6. Thanks for all those interesting replies. Unfortunately, I was not referring to inboard Schwimmers but rather a reservoir (remote from the soundboard) having a floating pan instead of ribs - one often sees older double rise bellows converted to this type, presumably because it is less expensive than re-leathering the original. My original question in regard to this was in relation to calculation of size. I have seen quite small reservoirs of this type supplying quite large divisions, although with internal disc valves controlling the input of wind from the blower - presumably because these are faster acting than an external roller blind or guillotine.

    Sorry if I didn't make myself clear in the previous post.

    PM

  7. As an alternative to traditional bellows types, one often meets with what I call the 'floating pan' reservoir. I understand that there are several names for this type of reservoir and some even call it Schwimmer type, I believe. We all know that the use of adequate electric blowers has tended to relegate the reservoir to more the role of a regulator. In this connection, I'd be interested to know if, and how, the size of such reservoirs can be equated to the 'stop value' of an organ. Also, what part the choice of wind valves plays in any such calculations; that is, whether an inboard valve (inside the reservoir) or external slide or roller valve. All views and comments are most welcome. Thanks.

  8. The burning of the grain of the timber seals it against the leakage of wind - both through the exposed end-grain and also along fissures in the grain of the timber at the point where the pipe tip contacts it. After burning, we wax the boards and this also provides a smoother surface for the pipe tip to sit in.

     

    Actually, I've always liked the way it looks after doing this too!

     

    DW

     

    Burning also neutralises locally the acid in the timber, which attacks the pipe metal, especially where oak is used.

  9. Having been used to heated irons for scorching upperboards, etc, I was interested to see that one American builder uses special high-speed bits for doing this. Wonder if any English builder is familiar with this method and the design of such bits? Going back to a much earlier post about electric solderings irons, John Mander hinted that he might have a s/h Laukhuff iron for sale. If that's still the case, I'd be pleased to hear back from him about this.

    PM

  10. Thanks. I'll try to find out more.

    PM

     

    I saw one on Ebay yesterday, in Staplecross, Sussex, for £50 or thereabouts. 1/4 hp Discus blower with cabinet.

    I'll look again and maybe post the link.

     

    H

  11. Many thanks, I'll investigate the Laukhuff irons.

    Peter Munro

     

    We use Alk soldering irons which are available from Laukhuff and if you have difficulty getting one from them, we may be able to help. They are nit temperature controlled themselves. One has to combine them with a dimmer (a normal light dimmer will work as the irons are less than 100w). Then you also need to prepare the iron so that everything except the (flat) bottom of the iron itself is blackened so that it will not take the solder.

     

    I have seen thermostatically controlled ones, but I think they were especially made and it is not really necessary.

     

    John

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