Advice sought on lubricating a roller board

[OwenTurner]

Hello, I wonder whether anyone can give me advice on how to or whether to lubricate a roller board in my home tracker organ?

I have some notes which are slow to cease causing the occasional cipher, though more commonly a sluggishness on repetition or a disconcerting feeling that the keys are not keeping up in passage work. There's tension in the tracker trying to return the pallet which feels consistent note to note. I can feel more resistance in the turn of the rollers in the few offending notes.

Before I locate furniture polish, WD40, olive oil or 3 in 1 would anyone have any advice on what I could use, or does anyone feel I should really stop and get a professional in? Thanks in anticipation.

[Colin Pykett]

I'd caution against WD40.  It's not a long-term lubricant, being intended mainly as a short-term fix to free seized and corroded metal parts if it's intended for anything at all.  In any case, nobody really knows what's in it.  Keep it firmly locked up in the cupboard and well away from organs!  (Some people use it for "cleaning" electrical contacts in organs.  Heavens above!).

I don't think your question can be answered without knowing what the articulating surfaces are.  For example, is there a pin at each end of the roller?  If so, what is it made of?  If the pin is plated, e.g. chromium-plated steel, is there any sign that the plating is wearing through?  What material is the journal (bearing) into which the pin fits?  Is the journal bushed, and if so, with what material?  Is there any sign of corrosion on the articulating surfaces of pin or journal?

Long term reliability of moving parts due to lubrication failure can cause headaches, particularly where the forces involved are fairly low as in organ actions.  An oil-based colloidal graphite paste is sometimes used when assembling the action.  Being sticky, over time this attracts dust and general atmospheric muck which eventually turns into an ever-hardening thick sludge which can cause seizures of the type you  mention.  This form of failure can also arise in motorised stop key units in which the armature pivots were lubricated this way.  Its onset is often advertised when stops gradually begin to fail to respond to the pistons.  Similar problems can arise with the lever arm magnets used in electric actions which might have the same type of pivots lubricated in the same way.  Remedying the problem can be expensive on account of the labour costs alone if the problem is widespread and affecting more than just a few pivots.  These problems are made worse if the organ is in an environment where people smoke, or where incense is used.

A different type of problem can arise at the point where a tracker is attached to a roller arm.  Traditionally this is done using a tapped (threaded) wire attached to the tracker, with a pair of adjustable buttons made of leather, plastic etc to locate the wire in the roller arm.  Over time the buttons can swell, or they can rotate slightly.  This can make the joint stiff, resulting in the problem you mentioned.  A bit of careful adjustment of the buttons to reintroduce a little more free play is all that is necessary here.

[A Caskie]

I agree with everything Colin Pykett says above.  We have found occasionally, nevertheless, that a drop or two of appropriate lubricating oil can ease a problem in mechanical actions if all likely sources have first been identified and addressed.  In such instances, we've found Protek CLP works like magic.  Available at https://www.pianocoversonline.co.uk/products/p132-protek-clp-lubricant and other sources online, and a favourite of piano tuners.

Hope this helps

[OwenTurner]

Thanks so much to Colin and Andrew for the advice. I'll order some of the stuff and report back with progress. I need to remove pedals, which take a while to realign, and lie down uncomfortably to get into position so I'll wait until I have the lubricant before exploring further. This group is so supportive!

[pwhodges]

If I'm in doubt how to lubricate a joint, first I clean it thoroughly, which is sometimes (quite often, actually) all it needs, and then as a first attempt at actual lubrication I may use a light touch of dry graphite powder, as sold by locksmiths for instance.

I won't put a wet or oily lubricant on anything important until I know it's the correct thing to use. 

And, as said above, WD40 is not a lubricant - it's for driving out moisture on metal parts, both for storage and to help ease jammed joints.

Paul

[OwenTurner]

Thank you Paul. I've ordered some graphite. It's a lot cheaper than the suggestion from Andrew so I'll give that a go first if needed after taking the other no  lubricating advice given.

[stewartt]

Hi Owen,

Definitely Protek CLP - it works like magic and won't damage wooden parts. Much more effective than graphite powder because it penetrates. We had some problems with sticky squares on our Tickell organ at Westbourne as a result of damp conditions and it fixed everything. We wouldn't be without it - expensive but worth every penny.

Stewart

[Colin Pykett]

I really can't understand the reluctance to spend £17.95 on a product (Protek CLP) for easing a pipe organ action, especially as it's been recommended by a top flight organ builder and, by implication, another as well!  Expense is relative rather than absolute, surely?  We're talking here about fixing a high-art instrument worth 5 or 6 figures I should think.  Although  I've used the cheaper graphite powder option myself over the years for lots of jobs and it certainly has its place, it can be difficult to apply (depending on the job), partly because it tends to blow all over the place if you aren't careful.  Being a very fine powder, the problem is in "focusing" exactly where you want it to go, unlike a liquid which can be either directed through a tube or applied, drop by drop, using a screwdriver blade.  If powdered graphite gets onto wood you can't remove it easily, leaving the surfaces a messy-looking grey colour.  If you do decide to try it, make sure all traces are off your fingers before touching the keys, because it might also permanently discolour these otherwise.

[OwenTurner]

No remaining reluctance it's on order! Thanks again!

[OwenTurner]

Wow that Protek CLP has made a world of difference. My previously most resistant roller boards are now the ones with least resistance. Its tempting all lubricate it all, like I'd do with a push bike, but I'll resist the temptation. Thanks for all the advice.